![]() ![]() The sweeter the liquid, the higher the hydrometer will float and the higher the specific gravity. Hydrometer – a glass bulb device used to measure the specific gravity (SG) of juice or wine. If severe, can be removed by copper sulfite as a last resort. Hydrogen sulfide – a gas produced by yeast causing a rotten egg smell that is often produced at warmer fermentation temperatures. It can be used with sugar syrup to sweeten wine. Glycerin will also add some sweetness to wines. Glycerin – if the wine is thin, a couple ounces of glycerin give the impression of a wine with more body. Use 1 package or less dissolved in water. Gelatin – fining agent that reduces tannins and astringency. Egg whites have also been used in fining wine. Types of common fining agents include bentonite and Sparkolloid. Certain types of cloudiness or haze may appear in wine, and each type has an additive that works to clear the haze. Many different types of filter systems are available.įining – clearing the wine by chemical or non-mechanical means. Filtration is commonly done by pressing the wine through filter pads that retain the solids. Filtration enhances the quality of the wine. This cleaning process helps to improve taste, appearance and durability. Use when fermentation is finished, but only as a last resort if racking wine does not eliminate the problem.įiltering – filtration removes fragments of fruit, possible bacteria, and yeast cells. Keep wine dark.Ĭopper sulfate – used to remove hydrogen sulfide (H 2S) from wine. Keeping wine at 35 degrees for two weeks will drop out tartaric acid in the form of crystals, reducing the acid level of the wine. ![]() 1 teaspoon equals 4.3 grams.Ĭold stabilization – cold stabilizing reduces the acid level and will reduce or prevent crystals from forming when cooling wine in the refrigerator. CO 2 is also used by some wine makers to move the wine when racking, or to push the wine when filtering.Ĭitric acid – helps prevent iron hazes. CO 2 is also used to top off wine, the process of adding CO2 to the top of the carboy to replace oxygen that may have gotten into the carboy. As the CO2 is produced it rests on the surface of the wine, helping to prevent oxygen from getting into the wine. Always dissolve before stirring in must or wine.Ĭarbon dioxide or CO 2 – carbon dioxide is a gas produced by the process of yeast converting sugar into alcohol. Can use one crushed tablet per gallon at each racking. Usually one or two crushed tablets are used per gallon to sterilize must (wait 24 hours before adding yeast). 3.8 grams per gallon, 19 grams for 5 gallons, 3 teaspoons for 5 gallons.Ĭampden tablets – an easy-to-use additive that helps prevent oxidation. Generally not suggested for use if alternates can be used. Starting Brix when making wine is about 21 degrees depending on wine type.Ĭalcium carbonate or precipitated chalk – used to reduce acid in wines or must. Use 1-2 teaspoons in a 5-gallon batch.īrix – in simple form, Brix is a hydrometer scale used to measure the sugar content of a solution at a given temperature. Let stand 24 hours, shake well, then add to wine. Harder to work with than some other fining agents. May reduce the color in red or ros wines. This is not vitamin C tablets.īentonite – fining agent made primarily of clay. Fruit and sparkling wines should have the same acidity as a similar grape table wine.Īscorbic acid – an antioxidant or anti-browning agent used in making apple wine. Sherries should be between 0.50% and 0.60%. Semi-sweet table wines and ports should fall between 0.65% - 0.80%. Sweet white table wine should be between 0.70% - 0.85%. Dry white table wine should be between 0.65 -0.75% titratable acidity (TA) Dry red table wine should have a T.A. Test the acid level before adding any kind of acid.Īcidity – the desirable acidity of a wine depends on the style. See package directions for full information.Īcid blend – a mixture of tartaric, malic and citric acids used in wines requiring additional acid. Start out fresh next year.Īll measurements where provided below are approximate and may differ between brands. Our best advice is: buy chemicals for the quantity of wine you are making, or at the most enough for one season and properly dispose of them after the season is done. Most wine making chemicals have a limited shelf life. Compiled by Don Schiller & The Purple Foot Wine Club ![]()
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